仲夏出游记（五）大草帽和七巧板的印象
那天，离开“落泉别墅”时已是吃午饭的时候，我们驱车往南，在附近的公园里小憩野餐后，奔向4英里外的Kentuck Knob，去看赖特的另一个建筑，美国中产阶级最喜欢的家庭住宅Usonia的尖端之作——黑根之家（Hegan House）。
接近黑根之家停车场，就看见路的两边都围有木制的Z形栏杆，朴素大方、新颖别致，精神为之一振。顺着木栏杆装饰的路，我们先去黑根之家接待中心。走着走着，大伙儿被路边竖立在林中的那些精巧的鸟屋吸引了，个个像孩子似的围着鸟屋转，手中的相机也忙个不停。刚拍完林中鸟屋，视线马上又被周围那一个个趣味盎然的小景观吸引。旧式的电话亭、邮筒、农具等等，都曾经有过不寻常的过去，后来被主人收藏陈列在这里，向四面八方的来客陈述着往事。在鸟屋不远的大草坪上，有个大大的苹果心雕塑格外引人注目，我站在绿茵茵的草地上，一边想象着那个大苹果的美味，一边猜测是谁吃了那个苹果。
心中还琢磨着那个苹果，脚下跟着同伴们进了访问接待中心，逛了礼品店，上了游览车，来到了黑根之家大门前。
黑根之家是赖特1953年的作品。据资料介绍，这是赖特应考夫曼的朋友，冰淇淋商艾萨克·牛顿·黑根（Issac Newton Hegan）夫妇的请求，在忙于设计纽约古根汉博物馆（Solomon R. Guggenheim Museum）等一批重要项目的同时，专门抽空为他们设计的住宅。从1956年到1986年，黑根夫妇在这座有三个卧室、两个浴室、居住面积2300平方英尺的房子里住了整整30年，后因黑根先生患帕金森病才将住宅出售给他人，1996年开始对公众开放。
脑中正组合着这些资料，听见导游在门边招呼大家，忙跟过去，顺着导游的手看见了镶嵌在墙上赖特的签名，是很醒目的红色。
进了门，马上就有很亲切的感觉。环视四周，觉得总体风格与“落泉别墅”很不相同，没有那种如诗如梦的梦幻感，少了清幽和超然，多了暇意和温馨；但赖特独特的精细精密、精致精巧、精妙精美却渗透在建筑物的每一个地方。抬头看梁架门窗，用的都是红柏木，在阳光的映衬下，发出迷人的色泽，美得朴实无华又精致得令人叹服。在屋里，印象深刻的是那些刻了不同镂空图案的窗户。那些镂空的图案拼出了不同的几何图形，光透过镂空的图案变换着角度照进屋里，屋里的光源充足，没有直射的强光，每一束光都是那么柔和生动。这些图案和光照让我想起了神奇的七巧板。记得20年前女儿还小，在国内时我常常陪女儿看鞠萍姐姐主持的电视节目“七巧板”。每次看片头，看到那些转动的几何图形拼出漂亮的图案时，女儿就很兴奋，老是追问这是怎么变出来的？那一天站在黑根之家，品味着图案和光照，我觉得自己好象是在看赖特玩七巧板。他笑眯眯地，老是变换着手中的几何图形。
出了门，无论是站在屋外的长廊上，还是站在庭院里看长廊，印象深刻的都是那宽宽的屋檐。这些柏木屋檐突出3——10英尺不等，不仅有遮风避雨的功能，更有意思的是屋檐上有许多六边形的镂空天窗，可能是因为面南的缘故，听说冬日的阳光可通过六边形的镂空天窗照入室内，夏日的阳光却照不进来。此外，这遮着长廊的屋檐，冬天可挡风雪，夏日徐徐清风又可穿过六边形的天窗送入室内。我抬头从不同的角度细看这宽屋檐，总觉得很漂亮也很神奇。突然耳边响起一首歌，唱的是一个聪明调皮的小男孩，太阳落山了还戴着一顶大草帽，有人问他为什么，他说草帽里藏着个小秘密。如果有人要想知道那小秘密，那么对不起，你口袋里的糖果就进了那小男孩的草帽里。其实赖特设计的这黑根之家的宽大屋檐，不仅形态上和小男孩头上的大草帽很相像，那无限的趣味和聪慧的神韵更是迷人。
真的很难想像，设计黑根之家那一年赖特已经是86岁高龄的老人，他怎么能永远保持一颗快乐的童心和不灭的童真呢？为此，我对他又多了一份敬意。
沿着小路，漫步在建筑物旁的庭院和树林中，看到了不少生动有趣的雕塑作品，我又想，自己虽然不知道黑根夫妇是什么样的人，但我相信，为他们设计了住宅的设计师赖特应该是知道的。作为一名杰出的设计师，他有那份天赋理解自己客户的致爱。考夫曼喜欢水，他为其设计了以水为核心的“落泉别墅”；黑根夫妇这么喜欢这一住宅，其心态也一定是和充满无限生活情趣的赖特相通的。
就要结束游览时，我对朋友说，“落泉别墅”和“黑根之家”这两个建筑我都很喜欢，相比之下，“落泉别墅”更适合度假，“黑根之家”更适合家居；对我而言，“黑根之家”似乎更合适。我曾说过“家无需奢华，但应该永远温馨”。踏着夕阳告别黑根之家，我的心里溢满了温馨。
图1：在黑根之家停车场附近，路的两边都围有这种木制的Z形栏杆，朴素大方、新颖别致。
图2：顺着木栏杆装饰的路，我们来到了黑根之家接待中心。路上，大伙儿被这些精巧的鸟屋吸引了，一个个像孩子似的围着鸟屋转，细细观看那一个个形态各异的鸟屋林立在绿荫里，趣意盎然。
图3：刚刚为林中的鸟屋惊叹，马上又被鸟屋旁那些有趣的收藏吸引。
左上图/老式电话亭里的旧式电话。左下图/老式邮筒。右上图/昔日的农具。右下图/我们一起扶着犁，在草地上实习了一下。
图4：在鸟屋不远的大草坪上，这个大大的苹果心雕塑格外引人注目，在绿茵茵的草地上保持着新鲜的质感。
图5：左上图/经过这排茂盛的葡萄就到了访问接待中心。右上图/从这个门进去是接待中心、礼品店和咖啡屋。左下图/这位年轻的姑娘是我们的导游。右下图/我们的导游开着这辆车把我们送到了黑根之家。
图6：美国中产阶级最喜欢的家庭住宅Usonia的尖端之作——黑根之家的正门。
图7：左上图/从建筑物的左侧看，大门边可见一个红色的小四方形镶在墙上，那是著名设计师赖特的签名。右上图/从建筑物的右侧看，七巧板镂空图案的窗户格外醒目。左下图/建筑物左侧开放式的车库。右下图/窗户镂空图案的细节放大图。
图8：左上图/站在这里——建筑物背面楼上的长廊上，头上有大草帽般的屋檐遮挡烈日和风雨，放眼四处满目青翠。右上图/建筑物的梁架门窗用的是红柏木。左下图/从建筑物背面的右侧看长廊、屋檐和窗户。右下图/从建筑物背面的左侧看长廊、屋檐和窗户。
图9：这一组图从不同的角度展现了黑根之家大草帽般宽大屋檐无限的趣味和秀美的风姿。
图10：左上图/建筑物旁边的路灯。右上图/树林边，建筑物旁半圆形的坐椅。左下图/竖立在林中的这块柏林墙是房主的收藏。右下图/庭院中竖立的风铃，风吹铃动，悦耳的音乐随风飘散，在庭院中、在树林中飘散开来。
图11：在建筑物旁的庭院和树林中，陈列着不少生动有趣的雕塑作品，我选了这几个与各位一起欣赏。
图12：上图/摆在庭院和林中的两个雕塑作品。左下图/沿着林中石板小路漫步。右下图/林中拾得一野趣。
07/11/08 11:07:10 pm, , 19 comments
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